22 September 2010

Long Live McQueen



I am obsessed with Alexander McQueen. Tears sprung to my eyes when I drove by his store on Melrose just days after he passed. The storefront was haunting, grey, and empty as bunches of flowers withered away under the Los Angeles heat.
 A memorial was held yesterday to honor designer Alexander “Lee” McQueen, who committed suicide last February. While the label McQueen will not be showing during London’s fashion week, but rather Paris, the house’s Spring Summer 2011 collection is the current buzz. Sarah Burton, McQueen’s right hand, was appointed creative chief of the Alexander McQueen label four months ago. They are only weeks away from showing their first women’s collection since the designer’s death. Critics and fans alike are wondering if the label can really be Alexander McQueen without the creative genius of its namesake designer.
Hailing from London, Alexander McQueen was one of the most influential and experimental designers of the past decade. His work at Givenchy and Alexander McQueen can only be described as some of the most poignant work by a designer in such a short career.
McQueen's shows were filled with shock tactics that always garnered him attention as a young designer. His collections were met with critical acclaim earning him the British Designer of the Year award four times.
He began formal training at London's most prestigious fashion school Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design as a pattern cutter and a tutor. His strong portfolio led the head of the Master's course to convince him to enroll as a student where he received his Masters degree in fashion design. Influential fashion stylist Isabella Blow bought his entire graduation collection and helped jumpstart his wildly successful career.  It is rumored she is in fact the one who convinced him to go by his middle name Alexander rather than his first name Lee when he launched his fashion career. 
McQueen was appointed head designer at Givenchy in 1996 succeeding John Galliano. His most famous show with the house included car robots spray-painting white dresses on the runway. Givenchy is a classic label that didn’t always accept the outlandish ideas McQueen brought forth. He left the Givenchy label in 2001 when his contract ended.
To put his wildest ideas into fruition, McQueen started his own label. The Gucci group bought a 51% stake in the company and appointed him Creative Director. By the end of 2007, McQueen had boutiques in London, Milan, New York, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas. 2007 also marked the first year his label made a profit.
It was no secret to the industry that McQueen had a dark side. His collections were saturated with sinister, twisted elements that were in turn hauntingly beautiful. One of his most popular pieces was a skull scarf that was worn by most of Hollywood's elite.
2007 also brought the designer attention with the suicide of close friend Isabella Blow. Rumors circulated that there was a rift between the two because of McQueen's supposed under-appreciation of Blow.
McQueen’s tragic death followed shortly behind Blow’s. He died days before the start of London Fashion week, though he was not scheduled to show there, and nine days after the death of his mother. On February 18, 2010 President of the Gucci Group announced the label would go on. His last collection was shown during Paris Fashion Week on March 9th in a private showroom.
McQueen’s last full runway collection contained "some of the most chillingly misogynist footwear we have ever seen on the runway" according to fashion columnist Suzy Menkes. One of my life goals, and I'm really not kidding, is to wear a pair of the armadillos (as worn by Lady Gaga here at the VMAs).
The loss of this designer is still being felt throughout the industry today. As October 5th draws closer, all eyes will be on the label to see if they will be able to recreate the outlandish genius of Alexander McQueen.


15 September 2010

Trio


Hello World Post

I have a sick obsession: a passion for fashion if you will. I’m not sure how, or what ultimately fueled it, but I am fashion and pop culture obsessed. My family says that I shouldn’t care so much about the material things, but for me, fashion isn’t about who has the most expensive dress or the ‘it’ bag. It is more about the self-expression and freedom it gives you on how you present your self.
The immensity of the business and it’s far reaching effects on people is astounding, which the character Miranda Priestly in the movie  “The Devil Wears Prada” aptly describes when berating an employee who scoffs at the importance of clothing placed in magazines: “ However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you're wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.”
But, fashion is not just for those who can afford couture anymore, which I think is an interesting development. I believe part of this is because a fashion designer’s work is not protected by copyright infringement. I used to think that clothes should be able to be copied by the large chains, partly because I enjoy shopping at them and getting ‘in’ clothes at a fraction of the cost. However, after working at a luxury brand, I see the harmful effects it can have on a company.
A few years ago, my ultimate goal would have been to be an editor at one of the top fashion magazines. Every time Vogue or Elle arrived in the mail, I would drop whatever I was doing and read them cover to cover, examining every little purse, shoe, jacket. I saw the beauty in the wild fashion spreads, and enjoyed the thought provoking essays included in every issue.
My thoughts on the fashion world are changing wildly as I get further and further into the business. Magazines are no longer the only authority on what is in, what designers have had a standout season, and what is going to sell. Personal style and fashion news blogs have begun to take away some of the publishing worlds authority.
My favorite instance of this is Tavi, a thirteen-year-old blogger with an immense vocabulary, wacky style, and insightful commentary. Her blog, “The Style Rookie” has given her an ‘in’ into the fashion world. She has become friends with top designers like Miuccia Prada and the Mulleavy sisters of “Rodarte” and is placed in the coveted front row at fashion shows and given couture for free in the hopes she will wear it in her blog.
After working in VIP Relations at Prada this summer, I have more authority on how things work in fashion, especially in fashion PR and celebrity dressing. I’m finding out that maybe my place is not in the magazine world, where you are almost always replaceable. With this class project, I think that blogging about the business and news side of the fashion world will help me not only become more educated, but also give myself a strong voice on the subject and find where I may want to take myself after college. Being a print journalism major, I plan to focus on more of the news side of the fashion industry- what is current and all upcoming things. With that, I will be able to interject my new viewpoint on the interworking of luxury brands.



Profile Post

It took hundreds of hours to hand sew thousands of little black and white beads into the couture Chanel dress Jane Aldridge wore to the 19th Crillion Ball in Paris last fall. Most women chosen for the international ‘it’ debutante ball are the daughters of CEOs, moguls, and on occasion actors. Jane is a country girl from Trophy Club Texas, but was recommended by the editors of Vogue to attend all because of a little blog she started in 2007.
Aldridge has a wacky, but brilliant sense of style, as evidenced by her unusual dress for the ball, a far cry from the princess dresses most girls were decked out in.
“Sea of Shoes” reportedly garners over 75,000 hits per day. Aldridge, only 17-years old, has become a fashion internet mogul because of her penchant for designer shoes, vintage, over the top animal jewelry, and kitschy accents. Kanye West is also a big fan, making a shoutout to Aldridge on his own blog.
Readers over the past three years have been able to follow Aldridge and the ultimate evolution of her style. I have been reading her blog for two years, and while sometimes I could never imagine myself styling the outfits she does, I admire her confidence to put herself out there. But really, I just want all of her shoes. Is it embarrassing that sometimes they almost make me drool? 
Personal style blogs have become a fairly recent obsession of mine. I first read about “Sea of Shoes” in Teen Vogue and immediately fell in love. I always felt like a black sheep because of my obsession with shoes, and finally, there was someone who was even more infatuated. I began to check back every day to see what new insights and more importantly, shoes Jane would post. It has come to the point where I’m upset if there is no new post for me to examine. But, as her fame has grown and opportunities have arisen, Jane now posts only two or three times a week.
The Crillion Ball is just the tip of the iceberg of opportunities that have sprung from Jane’s outfit chronicles. Aldridge designed her own capsule collection for Urban Outfitters, co-designed a trench coat for Gryphon, and is featured in top fashion magazine spreads. Because her blog has become so popular and a full time job, Aldridge does not attend school anymore and is instead homeschooled. She spends at least 5 or 6 hours per day creating posts, editing pictures, and answering emails.
“Sea of Shoes” has such a diverse audience: from editors to pop superstars to the everyday girl. And as popularity of the blog spreads, so does Aldridge’s authority on all things fashion. While I would never wear cropped cut Levi’s, vintage 80’s yellow-embroidered snowsuits, or large metal beetle belts, I am fascinated with how Aldridge is able to put together the most random things and create such beautiful images. I’m also obsessed with her Prada and Miu Miu shoe collection- she always has the best pairs of the season, including the daisy print maryjanes from her most recent post seen here.
This site will obviously differ from my work, because as a college student I tend to dress casually everyday, not in couture. But, Aldridge is such an inspiration, and is often spot on with trends, sometimes years before they happen. I think what is so inspiring about Aldridge is how far her blog has taken her: from a girl just posting about her love of shoes to a Crillion debutante.


Voice Post

Tavi Gevinson is a fashion darling. And at only 15 years old the head haunchos are turning to her for her insights. Even though she just started high school, she is casually missing a few weeks for Fashion Week activities. I wish I had started a blog when I was 15.  Sadly, I do not have the same wit, pop culture references, or wealth of opinions that seem to flow freely from the wild mind of Tavi Gevinson.
In case you would like to sum up Tavi in a short paragraph, she has already done it for you:
“Wears batman capes and oversized hats. Scatters black petals on Rei Kawakubo's doorsteps and serenades her in rap. I wish I was Daria but I get too excited about things like candy to be deadpan all the time.
She writes about fashion collections, Britney Spears, Terry Richardson, her life experiences, what she wears, her favorite movies, and extremely random brain rants, like “Justin Bieber Catbutt vs. Frumpy Troll”.
            That being said, Tavi has the strongest voice of any fashion blogs I read, and in my countless hours perusing the Internet and following a trail of blogs from site to site, I have read a lot. I find myself checking in on her site every few days not for her fashion knowledge, and definitely not for her outfit choices, but for her humorous outlook on the industry and all things pop culture related. I find myself laughing out loud at her jokes. Tavi is like an encyclopedia for pop culture references, as her blog is littered with throwbacks to shows like Daria and other 90s genre topics that I only faintly recall. Where did she get the time to learn about all of these things?
            Her mood boards, a common feature on most fashion blogs, are what I would categorize as ‘different’. In her post, “mood”, Tavi puts images from her journal collages. The juxtaposition of sweet 50s looking dresses in one image and a man covered in bees in another is the status quo on the style rookie.
Salvador Dali in Balenciaga Fall 2010. That astronomy photo is from a 70's issue of National Geographic, the Dali photo is from the Fall 2008 issue of T (have you seen             the new issue? ISN'T IT SO GOOD?) and the pants and shoes are Balenciaga. The             glitter is from a birthday party I went to at Club Libby Lu in 4th grade. You heard right. And no, I don't know why I still have it.”
            Tavi gravitates towards the unusual in the fashion industry, with an appreciation for cult brands like the above mentioned Balenciaga. Tavi is constantly being watched by the industry because of the oddball things she does with the collections, like adding Balenciaga clothes to a picture of Salvador Dali. But once again, she reminds you of her age with a link to Wikipedia explaining what Club Libby Lu is. Tavi constantly links out from her blog to explain her references giving a little more authority to what she writes about.
            Her maturity is one of the most astounding things about her blog. Apart from just being majorly successful at blogging, Tavi carries a sense of self-awareness, and is constantly assuring readers “I swear I don’t talk like that in real life”. Her rants to lead her to odd places, and most end in a very keen- what was I just talking about type of conclusion.
            In Tavi’s most recent post “you probably don’t even know my middle name”, she chronicles her trip to Antwerp with her father. Her funny side pops out immediately:
It's such hard work! You have to sit there and move the fork from the plate to your mouth. I took a photo in order to capture the Hard Work, hoping I could show it to my P.E. teacher and get gym credits for doing Hard Work outside class.”
            I would totally think eating Belgian waffles was hard work too, if I had to skip class to go to Antwerp to go to an art exhibition. Tavi may not be the most scholarly writer, considering her age and lack of grammatical instruction, but her voice shines through in her witty one-liners and constant use of italics, capitalizations, and all caps writing.
Although, now that I am looking closely into Tavi’s writing, I can see a slight air of arrogance. Maybe that’s my jealousy speaking. But, right when I think I have the real Tavi figured out, I read this in her post titled “Things I learned in High School: Day One”:
“And I have reached the age in which I am too often under the incorrect impression that I am wise enough to make that kind of observation
Tavi’s self-deprecation and awareness to her own nativity is simply astounding. What teenager is so self-assured? At 15, I was just trying to survive high school. But not Tavi- high school seems like a side project to her busy schedule.
            Even though the fashion world seems to be enamored with Tavi, apparently school isn’t such a breeze. You see, Tavi just started high school. And because her blog is whatever she wants it to be at the moment, Tavi talks about school experiences often and reminds her readers that she is not the know-all end- all to fashion insights.
“If you, as a short person, want to get anywhere in the halls, you must push and shove. PUSH AND SHOVE.”
            This is a prime example of Tavi’s voice. Can’t you just hear a short girl in glasses and a semi-bowl cut telling you with such exasperation in her voice that getting though the halls in high school requires effort? “PUSH AND SHOVE”, I can just hear her yelling it at me.
            Sometimes I wonder if I like Tavis’s writing so much because of her lack of experience writing literary essays and critical pieces. She just rants about what she wants to, and calls it a day.

13 September 2010

McQueen, Armani, and Raw Meat?

High definition TV was on overload last night trying to pick up every fleshy, vibrant pixel of Lady Gaga’s outrageous outfit changes.

First, an outfit fit for a queen made by McQueen. Ethereal gold feathers sprouted out of her head. Rounded armadillo shoes skyrocketed her 10-inches into the air. High-church angels and Bosch demons melted down the flowing chiffon layers of her ornate dress. Lady Gaga has arrived at the VMAs.

As she teetered on stage to accept her first award of the night, still in her red carpet attire, I could not help but remark that this is the prettiest, and daresay most normal, I have ever seen her look. Simple makeup, a healthy tan, and overall gleam surrounded Gaga; it was after all her night with a record breaking 13 VMA nominations.

Gaga, who has a flair for the dramatic, has been quickly embraced by the visionaries of the couture fashion world, including the house of recently deceased designer, Alexander McQueen. And the Lady did him justice tonight in one of the last pieces he created from the Fall/Winter 2010 season. Gaga embodies the “full realization of concept and showmanship” that epitomized McQueen. To top off the red carpet look, which was just the first of the night, her hair hung loosely from her middle part, iced with bright blue tips.

It is hard to imagine how she walked comfortably in those shoes. During McQueen’s runway show when the iconic armadillos first made their debut, some models refused to walk in them in fear of injuring themselves. But, Gaga is fearless when it comes to fashion.

Gaga took the stage for the second time to accept her award for best pop video, but no, she was not wearing the same outfit. She donned a spiked black headpiece with an origami, black, leather ball gown by Armani. 


It must have been one heavy dress because it took two people to lift her out of her seat to get to the stage.  


“I didn’t plan the outfits with the wins, I can’t really walk in this. Fashion Road Kill,” proclaimed the Goth-Lady Liberty-esque Gaga.


He last outfit, however, proved to be the most shocking of them all. She was draped in raw meat. Yes, that’s right, she was wearing a head (a slab rested on her fair locks) to toe (her shoes were made out of meat too) look of raw meat.


“ I never thought I would ask Cher to hold my meat purse”, Gaga exclaimed as she climbed onto the stage in the Franc Fernandez meat ensemble to accept the award for Video of the Year. I’m not sure what kind of statement raw meat makes, but surprisingly the dress had a lot of shape, draping and texture to it. I wonder what Cher thought while she was holding onto the purse?

I feel some sort of special connection to Lady Gaga because I saw her perform in LA at a small club right before she made it “big”. Right away, I knew I loved her style. She was wearing a white origami dress with matching headpiece that ripped away to a white leotard. Many stars may be following the “pantlessness” trend lately (ahem Taylor Momsen) but Lady Gaga was there first.

Now, Haus of Gaga, her creative production team, is behind the realization of the Gaga looks. They bring her wildest fashion aspirations to life, create sets, props, and sounds for her live performances.

Disco balls, bubbles, leather, red lace bodysuits with a matching face covering headpiece, bunny ears, white powdered face, Kermit body suit, no pants, yellow hair, orb-y solar system dresses, bows made out of hair, diet coke can curlers, burning cigarette glasses, the list goes on and on with the revolutionary, avant-garde fashions Lady Gaga has brought to the mainstream public.

This year’s 2010 VMAs were an all-encompassing glimpse into the many facets of Gaga’s fashion. Couture, avant-garde, and just plain out there, Gaga is never one to disappoint her fans, dubbed “little monsters”.

Whether you mock her and label her as insane, or follow in her wake as one of her little monsters it is hard to deny the fashion phenomenon Lady Gaga had generated. 

08 September 2010

The Style Rookie

The Style Rookie is only 15 years old, and has already garnered numerous acclaims in the fashion world. Even though she just started high school, she is casually missing a few weeks for Fashion Week activities. I wish I had started a blog when I was 15. But sadly, I do not have the same wit, pop culture references, or wealth of opinions that seem to flow freely from the wild mind of Tavi Gevinson.
In case you would like to sum up Tavi in a short paragraph, she has already done it for you:
“Wears batman capes and oversized hats. Scatters black petals on Rei Kawakubo's doorsteps and serenades her in rap. I wish I was Daria but I get too excited about things like candy to be deadpan all the time.”
She writes about fashion collections, Britney Spears, Terry Richardson, her life experiences, what she wears, her favorite movies, and extremely random brain rants, like “Justin Bieber Catbutt vs. Frumpy Troll”.
That being said, Tavi has the strongest voice of any fashion blogs I have read and in my countless hours perusing the Internet following a trail of blogs from site to site I have read a lot. I find myself checking in on her site every few days not for her fashion knowledge, and definitely not for her outfit choices, but for her humorous outlook on the industry and all things pop culture related. Tavi is like an encyclopedia for pop culture references, as her blog is littered with throwbacks to shows like Daria and other 90s genre topics that I only faintly recall. Where did she get the time to learn about all of these things?
Her mood boards, a common feature on most fashion blogs, are what I would categorize as ‘different’. In her post, “mood”, Tavi puts images from her journal collages. The juxtaposition of sweet 50s looking dresses in one image and a man covered in bees in another is the status quo on the style rookie.
“Salvador Dali in Balenciaga Fall 2010. That astronomy photo is from a 70's issue of National Geographic, the Dali photo is from the Fall 2008 issue of T (have you seen the new issue? ISN'T IT SO GOOD?) and the pants and shoes are Balenciaga. The glitter is from a birthday party I went to at Club Libby Lu in 4th grade. You heard right. And no, I don't know why I still have it.”
Tavi gravitates towards the unusual in the fashion industry, with an appreciation for cult brands like the above mentioned Balenciaga. Tavi is constantly being watched by the industry because of the oddball things she does with the collections, like adding Balenciaga clothes to a picture of Salvador Dali. But once again, she reminds you of her age with a link to Wikipedia explaining what Club Libby Lu is. Tavi constantly links out from her blog to explain her references giving a little more authority to what she writes about.
Her maturity is one of the most astounding things about her blog. Apart from just being majorly successful at blogging, Tavi carries a sense of self-awareness, and is constantly assuring readers “I swear I don’t talk like that in real life”. Her rants to lead her to odd places, and most end in a very keen- what was I just talking about type of conclusion.
In Tavi’s most recent post “you probably don’t even know my middle name”, she chronicles her trip to Antwerp with her father. Her funny side pops out immediately:
“It's such hard work! You have to sit there and move the fork from the plate to your mouth. I took a photo in order to capture the Hard Work, hoping I could show it to my P.E. teacher and get gym credits for doing Hard Work outside class.”
I would totally think eating Belgian waffles was hard work too, if I had to skip class to go to Antwerp to go to an art exhibition. Tavi may not be the most scholarly writer, considering her age and lack of grammatical instruction, but her voice shines through in her witty one-liners and constant use of italics, capitalizations, and all caps writing.
Although, now that I am looking closely into Tavi’s writing, I can see a slight air of arrogance. Maybe that’s my jealousy speaking. But, right when I think I have the real Tavi figured out, I read this in her post titled “Things I learned in High School: Day One”:
“And I have reached the age in which I am too often under the incorrect impression that I am wise enough to make that kind of observation”
Tavi’s self-deprecation and awareness to her own nativity is simply astounding. What teenager is so self-assured? At 15, I was just trying to survive high school. But not Tavi- high school seems like a side project to her busy schedule.
Even though the fashion world seems to be enamored with Tavi, apparently school isn’t such a breeze. You see, Tavi just started high school. And because her blog is whatever she wants it to be at the moment, Tavi talks about school experiences often and reminds her readers that she is not the know-all end- all to fashion insights.
“If you, as a short person, want to get anywhere in the halls, you must push and shove. PUSH AND SHOVE.”
This is a prime example of Tavi’s voice. Can’t you just hear a short girl in glasses and a semi-bowl cut telling you with such exasperation in her voice that getting though the halls in high school requires effort? “PUSH AND SHOVE”, I can just hear her yelling it at me.

Sometimes I wonder if I like Tavis’s writing so much because of her lack of experience writing literary essays and critical pieces. She just rants about what she wants to, and calls it a day.